Liptstick, Lies and Videotape: Episode 1

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Based in Glasgow, James is a professional make-up artist who has worked on a wide variety of productions spanning television, short film and theatre, and for a wide range of clients including Sky Media, BBC Scotland, Hatwalk and Sit1. View his MM profile: here.

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“Where do you get your inspiration from?” The one question that people always regret asking me, because it leads to me rambling on about silent movies and the golden era of Hollywood, talking about Max Factor, Theda Barrah, Gloria Swanson and numerous other forgotten legends.

I am a huge fan of the golden age of Hollywood, or Hollywood town as it was know in the silent era. Although many (ok all) of my favourite actors are long since gone. I still love the glamour and beauty of old Hollywood. We are talking about the days when Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks to name a few, were ruling the roost.

Some of the best films of my childhood were silent movies and the early talkies.

My favourite and I am sure the favourite of many is Charlie Chaplin who’s slapstick antics have enticed and entertained generations of children and adults alike. Working with such luminaries as the amazingly talented and skilled Roscoe “fatty” Arbuckle, a vaudeville child turned scandalous star. Who’s debauch legend lives on today as a moral tale in its own right.

Yes I admit even the scandals and life stories are like catnip to me.

Over the last few years I have read and reread the stories of such stars as Valentino, the original screen god. A talented and charismatic character actor who met a tragically young end. His life dogged by scandal he none the less became a hero. Portraying a variety of characters such as the Sheik (not bad for a little dramatic man from Italy) and the scarlet pimpernel where he played up to his physique and was immensely camp and derisive in one scene and then heroic and brave the next.

We are talking about the days when Max Factor was the man to go to for make up. Starting his career as a wigmaker to the Zsar and Zsrania of Russia, he fled to America where he became the go to man for cosmetics. Constantly innovating and developing new cosmetics and using the most beautiful women of the day to advertise. The gorgeous Clara Bow, a silent movie actress who fell from grace when her voice was to Bronx for the talkies, and ended her days as a semi recluse.

I follow these people’s stories because they were innovators and glamorous in ways that today’s stars have forgotten. The scandals were swept under the rug, speculated and became to stuff of legends, unproven till long after their death. (Rock Hudson anyone? Marylyn Monroe?)

Looking at these legendary beautiful people I have compiled a list of stars I would love to have worked with along with a reason for each. Some you will recognise, some you won’t, hopefully this will inspire you to look them up and see what I see.

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Actresses: Marylin Monroe
Her beauty was only surpassed by her sadness. Her tragic life marred by scandal, heartache and disappointment. She had a look that even now is iconic.

Katherine Hepburn
One of the truly beautiful women of movies she was just as comfortable in chinos and an old shirt as she was in a gown. Katherine embodied the self reliant, pioneer, child of suffragettes (both her parents were part of the votes for women movement), she had a classic look that as she aged became classical. She still had a sense of beauty and dignity even in her darkest roles and lowest hours.

Audrey Hepburn
Another inspiring woman. In a sea of blonde and busty, she came along in a gamine breeze and made her mark as both a woman and an actress. Her classic look still inspires people today.

Marlena Deitrich
A strong, individual she had the masculinity to carry a suit and the sexuality of a goddess, she embodies the power and striking image of a legend, her pictures still look as beautiful and contemporary now as they did when they were taken.

Bette Davis
Although not a classic beauty, in her youth Bette held the world in her hand and made sure that people knew she was there. Strength and character are admirable in this woman in a way that even I tremble at. Who can forget that hissing, spitting, terrifying performance in Baby Jane?!

Lauren Bacall
She has even in her elder years carried herself with dignity and her beauty is ageless. I would love the opportunity to turn back the clock and work with her at her peak, then return and see her as the older, dignified woman who stood by Humphrey Bogart, survived heartache and still wonders why people are fascinated with her.

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Actors: It may seem odd that I am going to list male actors, but humour me. Although not always made up to the same degree as the women, a great many of the leading men of the golden age were character actors as well as stars.

Rudolph Valentino
I just want to see the man behind the legend. His Italian roots never hindered him in a time when they were looked down on and to work with someone of his legendary status (even early in his career he took on a sexually ambiguous state). In the aftermath of his death, it was said that many people, male and female committed suicide. It’s the stuff of legend that in a hotel in Paris a porter was found dead surround by images of Valentino. He died in pain, the great lover of the Silent era, referred to as the pink powder puff, stayed true to himself and died with dignity befitting his stature.

James Dean
Although not strictly a character actor he portrayed the essence of youth rebellion and desires. Jimmy managed in the space of three films to create a legend, that death couldn’t destroy, although it may have been his greatest triumph in a morbid way. His portrayal of characters and innate abilities were mesmerising and truly amazing to watch.

Sal Mineo
Another little Italian, Sal was one of those actors who although being a legend for his part in the film, Rebel without a cause, he never made that leap from child star to adult movie star. He never gave in and kept working till the end. Tagged the switchblade kid, he became what James Dean would have been (in my humble opinion) essentially a forgotten star. His skills transferring back to his theatre roots he became a leader and unintentional activist. Lesser known for roles in films like return to the planet of the apes (a brief appearance thanks to the late, great Roddy McDowell) and the creepy, erotic thriller “who killed teddy bear.” He was a true actor as opposed to a star.

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I could at this point go on for hours and hours, taking up numerous pages and list the reasons I want to work with these people and why they fascinate me so. Instead I will leave you with a task. Look up those stars of yester year, the forgotten and the faded, revisit the Theda Barrahs, the Louise Brookes and the Sal mineo’s. Find those beautiful, decadent stars and read their stories. See the iconic images and beauty of these forgotten stars and see what their appeal is to this B movie make up artist.

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James Clark | e: james@makeupstylist.co.uk | w: www.illusionsbyjc.com | t: 07791237194 |